This year, I couldn’t attend my local crime writing festival in Harrogate for its full duration — I only made it to the Thursday night awards.
So, when I saw Iceland Noir advertised, I suggested to my two usual Harrogate companions that we give it a go. We thought, why not? None of us had ever been to Iceland and this was the perfect excuse to travel while enjoying a festival.
Before the trip, I tried to gather as much information as possible, but apart from the festival’s official website, I didn’t find much. If, like me, you’re a meticulous planner, this guide covers everything you need to know — from the festival itself to costs and what to wear in sub-zero temperatures!
Too long? Skip to what you want to know here: Iceland Noir / What to Wear / Costs
Iceland Noir Itinerary [Back to top]
Tuesday: Travel
I was a little worried about flying, as there were yellow weather warnings in place for the UK. My main concern was that any train delays could make us miss our flight — or worse, the flight itself might be delayed. Thankfully, everything was running smoothly despite heavy snow over the Pennines. Our EasyJet plane from Manchester was slightly delayed while they applied de-icer to the wings, but soon enough, we were on our way to Keflavík Airport, Iceland’s largest and main hub for international travel.
From the airport, we took the FlyBus to the BSI terminal in Reykjavík. Since we didn’t have a hotel transfer ticket, we grabbed a taxi from there to our hotel. It was only a 20-minute walk, but none of us fancied lugging our bags through the streets.
We stayed at the Reykjavík Residence Apartments, which were fantastic! Super clean, centrally located and with exceptionally friendly staff. Our apartment had a bedroom with two single beds, a bathroom, and a main living area that included a fully equipped kitchen, a sofa bed, and a dining table.
After dropping off our bags, we headed up the street to Bastard. They had a Taco Tuesday offer, so we stopped for food. I had their chilli sin carne tacos, which were delicious! They came with soft tortillas filled with vegan mince, pickled red cabbage, corn, jalapeños, aioli, and crispy carrots. Crispy carrots are definitely the way forward! I’m not vegan, but I can be a bit picky and hate wasting food, so I often opt for a veggie option just to be safe. After dinner, we headed back to the apartment and crashed after a long day of travel.
Wednesday: Exploring Iceland and Iceland Noir Day 1
The festival officially started on Wednesday, but since we hadn’t given ourselves much extra time in Iceland, we decided to use the day for some exploring. We booked a package through Reykjavík Excursions (recommended by the festival and operating since 1968) for the Golden Circle Tour and Sky Lagoon.
The tour took us to Þingvellir National Park, Geysir Geothermal Park and the Gullfoss waterfall. It was brilliant! We chose a shorter, direct version of the Golden Circle Tour, which took about four hours, leaving us time to enjoy the lagoon afterward.
After the tour, we were dropped off at the BSI terminal and took another bus to the Sky Lagoon. Our package included standard entry, which comes with their seven-step ritual. It was such a fantastic experience! You enter through a dramatic rock entrance and inside there’s a swim-up bar, a large geothermal pool with an infinity-style edge overlooking Reykjavík, and plenty of seats in the pool where you can relax with your drink.
The ritual includes a cold plunge pool, sauna, hot steam rooms, a cold mist spray, and a body scrub. You can stay as long as you like, and the return buses run hourly at half past. We made it back just in time for the evening’s Iceland Noir event, Spotlight on France, featuring Morgan Audic in conversation with Sverrir Norland.
Thursday: Iceland Noir Day 2
Thursday was our first full day at Iceland Noir, kicking off at 10 am with a Relaxed Chit Chat with David Baddiel in conversation with Ragnar Jónasson held at Kjarval. Straight after, at 11 am, I attended a panel I’d been really looking forward to: On the Dark Side: Chilling Thrillers, featuring authors Sam Holland, Melissa Larsen and Jaki Valsson moderated by Abby Endler.
After these two panels, I took a break to explore the nearby Penninn Eymundsson bookshop, where I picked up an Icelandic edition of an Ann Cleeves book as a memento — and it was even signed! I also treated myself to a chilli cheese plait and a slice of hjónabandssaela (roughly translated as happy marriage cake or wedded bliss) from Brauð & Co — both were absolutely delicious!
At 1 pm, I headed over to Fríkirkjan, a small and charming church that served as the afternoon venue, for Crafting Modern-Day Whodunnits. This panel featured authors Kevin Wignall, C.L. Miller and Kristen Perrin, interviewed once again by Abby Endler.
Following this, we took a quick break to stock up on snacks and drinks for our apartment at the Icelandic supermarket Bónus. Being just a 10-minute walk from either venue made it easy to fit in errands between events.
At 3 pm, we were back for Stories That Get Under Your Skin, featuring authors Nicole M. Wolverton and Hildur Knútsdóttir. I was especially intrigued by Hildur’s The Night Guest. While she’s a well-established author in Iceland, this is her first book to be translated into English, and it sounds amazing. The panel was moderated by Jacky Collins, who also runs Newcastle Noir in the UK. She was by far one of the best moderators I’ve seen — she had a fantastic way of putting the authors at ease and asking insightful, engaging questions. It felt like we came away from the talk with a much deeper understanding of both the books and the authors themselves.
Afterward, we took a well-deserved break at Lebowski Bar during happy hour. It’s a fun spot, fully themed with bowling alley tables and, of course, plenty of White Russians.
Later, we headed back to the venue for Nine Bodies in a Mexican Morgue, featuring Anthony Horowitz and Ólafur Darri, moderated by Yrsa Sigurðardóttir. While I thoroughly enjoyed the panel, I have one piece of feedback for the festival: the schedule only lists the talk titles and participants, whereas other festivals often include a brochure with detailed descriptions. I didn’t have time to Google every event in advance, so I went into this one expecting a discussion of books set in Mexico. It turned out to be about a new TV show created by Anthony and starring Darri, who you might recognize from The Tourist. It was a pleasant surprise, but a brief description of the events would be really helpful.
From there, we headed to Einstök Bar for a glass of wine before returning to our hotel for a quick recharge.
The evening ended just around the corner from our hotel at Bio Paradis, a cinema where at 9:30 pm, I attended a screening of the first episode of The Darkness. This upcoming CBS adaptation was followed by a Q&A with Árni Lárusson, Álfrún Laufeyjardóttir, Ragnar Jónasson and Ólafur Darri. The first episode was fantastic, and it was such a great experience watching it in Reykjavík while recognizing some of the filming locations. It hasn’t aired in the UK yet, so it’s definitely one to add to the watch list!
Friday: Iceland Noir Day 3
The first talk of the day ended up being one of my favorite experiences of the festival. We headed to Kjarval, where Icelandic author Sólveig Pálsdóttir led us on a walk around Reykjavík, visiting locations from her book Shrouded. We retraced the route her character Arnhildur would have taken home after attending a séance. It included crossing a bridge and following the side wall of a cemetery, along a snowy, unlit street where she was attacked.
At various stops along the walk, Sólveig’s daughter and Shrouded’s translator, Quentin Bates, read excerpts matching the locations we were standing in. A delightful surprise came when her husband met us mid-walk with hot chocolate and gingerbread — such a treat!
The walk lasted about an hour and a half, covering 1.3 miles. Afterward, we returned to Kjarval to meet a friend and catch the remainder of Supernatural Thrills and Gothic Chills, featuring authors Suzy Aspley, Jane McLoughlin and C.S. Green, moderated by the brilliant Jacky Collins.
I took a short break next, heading to the independent bookshop and publisher SALKA to pick up a copy of Shrouded. From there, I visited Hallgrímskirkja, Reykjavík’s stunning cathedral. After soaking in the cultural vibes, I made a beeline for nearby Víkinga Pylsur for a vegan wonder hot dog. It featured soya protein, red cabbage, potato crisps, vegan mayo and BBQ Tabasco Sriracha. I firmly believe all hot dogs should include a layer of crisps from now on — it was a game-changer!
From Viking hot dogs to actual Vikings: my next stop was All About the Vikings at Fríkirkjan, featuring a fascinating conversation between Dr. Cat Jarman and Dr. Viðar Pálsson.
At 4 pm, it was time for Spotlight on Vera with the lovely Ann Cleeves and Vera actress Brenda Blethyn, hosted by Ragnar Jónasson and Yrsa Sigurðardóttir. It drew a huge crowd and was such a joyful, funny talk. Following that, we stayed for Nordic Blue: Procedurals Set in Scandinavia, featuring authors Max Seeck, Ellen Gustavsen and Quentin Bates, moderated by Abby Endler.
Afterward, we headed out to refuel at Pósthús Food Hall & Bar. I opted for a four-cheese and pistachio pizza from Pizza Popolare, which was as delicious as it sounds.
Our day concluded with one final visit to the festival venue at 8 pm for Denmark’s Queen of Crime, featuring Sara Blædel in conversation with Abby Endler. It was the perfect way to round off a packed and inspiring day.
Saturday: Iceland Noir Day 4
Saturday marked the final day of the festival and featured the most talks I wanted to attend. It all began at 10 am with Spy Thrillers, featuring authors Rob Hart, Tim Glister and M.J. Furtek, moderated by Jacky Collins. I don’t usually read espionage thrillers, but I went because I loved Rob Hart’s The Warehouse. Now, I’m rethinking my stance — every book discussed sounded great. In fact, I already have a copy of Assassin’s Anonymous, which I picked up from The Mysterious Bookshop during my trip to NYC. Maybe that’s where I’ll start!
At 11 am it was The Craft of Writing: Telling Compelling Stories with authors Kate Sawyer, Louise Mangos and Anna Margrét Sigurðardóttir, moderated by Sverrir Norland.
Afterwards, I took a break for lunch at the nearby sandwich shop Hlöllabátar. I had the #1 New York, which was absolutely delicious — roast beef, Swiss onion, fried onion, Asian sauce and hlölli sauce.
Next, it was back to Fríkirkjan for Page-Turners and Plot Twists: Psychological Thrillers with authors T.M. Logan, Hannah Mary McKinnon and Heidi Perks, moderated by Abby Endler. This panel offered some fantastic advice. Attending so many events and hearing incredible insights into writing since I began going to festivals had inspired me to enroll in a Creative Thursday workshop and a Curtis Brown course. While I enjoyed them, I haven’t written much since — I’ve always found it easier when I have a starting prompt.
During this panel, Heidi Perks mentioned that she begins her books with a “What if…?” and something just clicked for me. Could I create my own prompts? That approach might be exactly what I need. Wish me luck!
After that panel, it was time for SJ Watson and Hattie Williams in conversation with Helga Soffía, discussing SJ’s Before I Go to Sleep and Hattie’s upcoming debut Bitter Sweet.
Sadly, the 3 pm talk was cancelled, but the organizers quickly arranged a fun crime fiction quiz instead, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Post-quiz, we headed to happy hour at The Old Bookshop (Hús máls og menningar) a wonderfully quirky venue.
At 5 pm, it was back to the venue for The King of Mystery and Thrillers, with Harlan Coben in conversation with Abby Endler.
For dinner, we went to Meira Ramen Momo, where I had their seasonal autumn veggie pumpkin ramen topped with charred corn. After my friends decided to call it an early night, but I wasn’t ready to end the festival just yet. I returned to the venue for the final two talks and the after-party. At 8 pm, there was The Darkness Panel, with Ragnar Jónasson and producer JP Sarni in conversation with Ryan Tubridy. We got to see the trailer and some set photos for the upcoming TV show. This was followed by From Stage to Page at 9 pm, featuring David Walliams in conversation with Ryan Tubridy.
Finally, it was time to say goodbye to Fríkirkjan and head to the Final Night Party at Fantasia, Kjarval. To be honest, I was nervous about going alone — it felt so outside of my comfort zone with it being in a different country. But I ended up meeting the most amazing group of Icelanders, who kindly took me under their wing for the evening. They were such lovely people and I truly hope they visit the Harrogate festival in the future so I can repay their kindness. Skál!
Sunday: Home Time
It was an early start for us as we headed to BSI to get the 7:30 am bus to the airport. Then we flew back to Manchester at 10:45 — I think I picked the wrong side of the plane as the other side seemed to have a good view of the volcano that had erupted a few nights prior!
Thank you for reading this far! Below you’ll find some information on what to wear and costings.
What to Wear [Back to top]
Before heading to Iceland, I was really apprehensive about what to pack. The coldest day we experienced was -9°C, but it felt like -15°C with the wind chill. I’d looked up photos from previous years of Iceland Noir and noticed that everyone seemed to be dressed quite casually. Was I worrying for nothing? Would we freeze? How many layers should I bring? And more importantly, how many jumpers could I cram into my suitcase?
It turns out I needn’t have worried too much. All the buildings were so well insulated that we even asked how to turn the temperature down in our hotel room — only to find out the radiators weren’t even on!
While researching, many people recommended brands like 66 North and The North Face. These brands have amazing jackets, but they’re on the pricey side. Since I only needed something super warm for this one trip, I found a Decathlon waterproof jacket on Hirestreet. It was rated for temperatures as low as -20°C and was absolutely perfect! It kept me cosy and I was able to purchase it outright for a fraction of the cost of pricier options.
For footwear, I brought my trusty Vans UltraRange EXO Hi MTE-2. They’re made with GORE-TEX and were brilliant for navigating the cold and snow. While the city streets were well-maintained with just a few small patches of ice, you’ll definitely want shoes with good grip if you’re planning day trips to places like Geysir or Gullfoss.
I also packed a couple of thermal tops and leggings, which were great for layering. My Acai thermal waterproof skinny trousers were a game-changer, keeping me snug and warm throughout. Beyond that, I just brought my usual autumn/winter wardrobe of jumpers and cardigans.
Oh, and don’t forget your swimwear if you’re planning a visit to one of Iceland’s lagoons!
Costs [Back to top]
Curious about the expenses for a literary getaway to Reykjavík? Here’s a breakdown of my costs for attending Iceland Noir, including travel, accommodation, food and festival essentials. This will give you an idea of how to budget if you’re planning a similar trip! The drinks were expensive so definitely keep an eye out for happy hours as it makes a big difference. I also found books more expensive in Iceland than the UK, but it was nice to support some independent shops and authors there.
🎟️ Iceland Noir early bird full festival ticket — £115
✈️ Return flights from MAN to KEF (with seat reservations, 1x small carry-on, and 1x 23kg hold baggage) — £228.78
🏨 Hotel for 5 nights (studio shared with 2 friends, my split) — £234
🚍 Return ticket for the airport bus between KEF and BSI (discounted rate via Booking.com) — £23
🚕 Taxi from the bus station to the hotel — £10.93
❄️ Golden Circle and Sky Lagoon tour — £148.88 from BSI or £159.30 with pick up and drop off to a nearer bus stop. If you are a group of 2+ it’s likely cheaper to share a taxi to BSI
🧥 Decathlon waterproof hiking parka from Hirestreet — £35
📚 Paperback Ann Cleeves (with 20% discount) — £20.63
📖 Paperback Shrouded — £18.86
💧 500ml bottle of water — £2.28
🍷 Glass of wine (non-happy hour) — £10.88
🍷 2 glasses of white wine and a pint of Gull during happy hour — £16.63 (£5.54 each approx)
🥪 Small sub and drink from Hlöllabátar — £9.10
🌮 2 tacos and a pint of Gull at Bastard during Taco Tuesday — £25.88
🍔 Burger and can of beer at Geysir — £20.09
🍕 Pizza and Pepsi at BSI Sbarro — £8.89
🥐 Cheese plait, cake and Pepsi at Brauð & Co — £9.54
🌭 Vegan hot dog at Víkinga Pylsur — £6.59
🍜 Ramen and drink at Meira Ramen Momo — £22.10
🍕 Pizza and a Pepsi at Pizza Popolare — £29.13
I think that’s covered off everything! Thank you so much for reading. If you have any comments then please let me know below or feel free to reach out on Instagram or Bluesky!
Beth Reads Crime 
Leave a comment